DESTINATIONS
Central Asia. Different countries, different reasons to go.
The great Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan. The mountains, horses and alpine lakes of Kyrgyzstan. The extraordinary desert landscapes of Kazakhstan, the mountain villages of Tajikistan and the remarkable architecture of Turkmenistan.
These countries are neighbours, but travelling through each of them is a very different experience.
Uzbekistan is a good place to begin if you're drawn to history, architecture, food and the bustle of city life. Kyrgyzstan offers a more active journey, with time in the mountains and small villages. Kazakhstan has everything from the restaurants and leafy streets of Almaty to some of the most unusual landscapes I've encountered.
I've travelled through all five Central Asian republics, as well as Afghanistan. Along the way I've taken local trains, shared cars, stayed with families and found that some of the best experiences are the ones you couldn't have planned in advance.
You could spend two weeks getting to know one country properly, or combine several if you have more time.
The trick is knowing which places suit you, how they fit together and where it's worth slowing down.
UZBEKISTAN
Silk Road cities and much more besides.
Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are extraordinary places to explore. There's just as much interest in the markets, workshops, neighbourhood restaurants and everyday life beyond the famous monuments.
Uzbekistan is a particularly good introduction to Central Asia. There are comfortable hotels, excellent train connections and plenty of opportunities to slow down and get to know a place.
I've also found some of my favourite experiences away from the main tourist routes, particularly in smaller towns and villages where hospitality can be wonderfully spontaneous.
You can join one of my small hosted journeys, have a trip designed around your own interests, or explore the country from behind the wheel of a classic Lada.
Kyrgyzstan
Mountains, lakes and time outside.
Kyrgyzstan is a place to spend time outdoors. Wide mountain valleys, alpine lakes, horses grazing on summer pastures and villages where life still follows the seasons.
You can walk for several hours into the mountains, ride with local horsemen, stay in a yurt or spend a gentler day exploring the shores of Issyk-Kul.
The level of adventure is up to you. Some journeys involve long mountain walks and simple accommodation, while others combine shorter outings with comfortable hotels and guesthouses.
It's a particularly good country for families with teenagers, but there's just as much to enjoy for couples or friends who like an active holiday.
Tajikistan
Mountain roads, beautiful valleys and village life.
Tajikistan rewards travellers who enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
There are mountain roads winding through spectacular scenery, the blue and green waters of the Seven Lakes, and small villages where staying with a local family can be one of the highlights of the trip.
Dushanbe makes an interesting contrast, with its broad avenues, parks and museums.
Tajikistan combines well with Uzbekistan, particularly around Samarkand and Panjakent. But I'd allow enough time to stop along the way rather than simply crossing the border and ticking off the main sights.
For those wanting a longer, more adventurous journey, the Pamir region opens up another side of the country.
Kazakhstan
Two very different sides of Kazakhstan.
Almaty is a lively, cosmopolitan city with excellent restaurants, leafy streets and mountains almost on its doorstep. You can spend a few days exploring the city, head into the mountains or visit the extraordinary landscapes around Charyn Canyon.
Far to the west, Mangystau feels like another world. Vast desert plains, enormous cliffs, unusual rock formations and landscapes that seem to go on forever.
I travelled through both regions, and the contrast is remarkable.
Almaty also makes a good starting point for a longer journey into Kyrgyzstan. Mangystau is better suited to travellers who are particularly drawn to remote landscapes and don't mind spending time on the road.
Turkmenistan
White-marble cities, ancient ruins and desert landscapes.
Turkmenistan is unlike anywhere else I've travelled in Central Asia.
Ashgabat's enormous white-marble buildings and carefully planned avenues are extraordinary. Outside the capital, there's the ancient Silk Road city of Merv, the Karakum Desert and the burning gas crater at Darvaza.
It's a fascinating country, but one that requires more advance planning and less independent flexibility than its neighbours.
I travelled through Turkmenistan with a local operator, and work with experienced people on the ground to help shape journeys around the places you're most interested in seeing.
It can be visited on its own or incorporated into a longer Central Asian journey, depending on the route and arrangements available.
SPECIALIST JOURNEYS
Afghanistan
A remarkable country, with serious considerations.
Afghanistan is one of the most extraordinary places I've travelled.
The mountains around Bamiyan, the history of Kabul and Balkh, and the warmth of the people I met made a lasting impression. I was invited into homes, shared meals and encountered a generosity that I hadn't expected.
But Afghanistan also presents serious security, legal, insurance, ethical and practical risks. New Zealand currently advises against all travel, and that advice needs to be taken seriously.
I can share my own experience and explain how I travelled with an experienced Afghan operator. Travel Further does not operate tours inside Afghanistan.
Anyone considering a journey should first review current government travel advice and investigate whether suitable insurance is available.
CURRENT NZ TRAVEL ADVICE
New Zealand SafeTravel currently advises Do Not Travel to Afghanistan (Level 4).
Conditions and advice can change. Anyone considering travel should read the latest SafeTravel advice and confirm the implications for travel insurance before making arrangements.
WHERE MIGHT YOU START?
If you're drawn to…
History, architecture, markets and food - Consider Uzbekistan
Walking, horses and mountain scenery - Consider Kyrgyzstan
Great cities, restaurants and extraordinary landscapes - Consider Kazakhstan
Mountain roads, village stays and less-travelled routes - Consider Tajikistan
Unusual architecture, ancient sites and desert journeys - Consider Turkmenistan
Wondering how to get to Central Asia from New Zealand? See How to Travel.
NOT SURE WHERE TO START?
Tell me what interests you. You don't need to decide which country to visit before we speak.
Perhaps it's Silk Road history that appeals, or walking in the mountains, meeting local people or simply going somewhere you haven't been before.
Tell me what interests you, how much time you have and how you like to travel. I'll help you work out which places suit you and how to put together a journey that makes sense.