KAZAKHSTAN
Big landscapes. Very different journeys.
From Almaty's leafy streets and mountains to the extraordinary desert landscapes of Mangystau, Kazakhstan changes enormously depending on where you go.
It's a country worth exploring, but I wouldn't try to see it all in one trip.
You could spend a week enjoying Almaty and the surrounding mountains and lakes. Or head west for a completely different experience, travelling through some of the most remarkable desert scenery I've seen.
I can help work out which part of Kazakhstan suits you, how much time to allow and whether it makes sense to combine it with somewhere else in Central Asia.
START WITH WHAT INTERESTS YOU
One enormous country. Several very different journeys.
Kazakhstan is much bigger than many people realise. Its most interesting places are often hundreds, sometimes thousands, of kilometres apart.
In the southeast, Almaty makes a wonderful base for good food, city life, mountain walks, canyons and alpine lakes.
In the far west, Mangystau is a different proposition altogether. You'll travel by 4WD through enormous desert landscapes, with rough tracks, long distances and places where there is very little sign of anyone else.
Then there are Astana and Baikonur, two very different destinations for people with particular interests in architecture, contemporary Kazakhstan or the history of space exploration.
I would choose the part of the country that interests you most and give it enough time. If you have longer, we can work out which combinations are genuinely worth making.
ALMATY
A city worth spending time in.
Almaty is one of my favourite cities in Central Asia. It's green, lively and full of good places to eat, with the mountains rising behind it.
There's plenty to enjoy without leaving town. The Green Bazaar, Panfilov Park, the colourful Ascension Cathedral, neighbourhood cafés and restaurants are all worth taking time over.
I'd allow at least two nights, preferably three, rather than treating Almaty simply as somewhere to fly into.
It's also a very good place to begin a longer journey, particularly if you're heading into the mountains or travelling onwards to Kyrgyzstan.
BEYOND ALMATY
Canyons, mountain lakes and a few days outdoors.
You don't have to travel far from Almaty before the scenery changes completely.
Charyn Canyon is remarkable, particularly if you take the time to walk down into the Valley of Castles rather than simply looking from the viewpoints above.
Further into the mountains, Kolsai Lake is surrounded by forest and steep slopes. Kaindy is quite different, with the trunks of submerged trees rising out of its turquoise water.
I'd allow several days for this part of Kazakhstan rather than trying to see everything on a single long day trip. The driving is part of the experience, and there's time to walk, stop for photographs and enjoy the places properly.
Depending on how active you'd like to be, we can include shorter walks, longer hikes or more time simply enjoying the scenery.
At Charyn, make time to walk down into the Valley of Castles rather than simply photographing the canyon from above. Kolsai is surrounded by forest and mountains, while Kaindy is known for the trunks of submerged trees rising from its turquoise water.
I'd allow a few days for this part of Kazakhstan. There's time to explore the canyon, walk around the lakes and enjoy the journey between them.
KAZAKHSTAN + KYRGYZSTAN
Two countries. One longer journey.
Almaty and eastern Kyrgyzstan make a very good combination.
You could begin with a few days in Almaty, explore the surrounding mountains and lakes, then continue overland into Kyrgyzstan, travelling towards Karakol and Issyk-Kul before finishing in Bishkek.
It's a journey with plenty of variety. A lively city, magnificent scenery, horses, mountain villages and time outdoors.
I particularly like that it can work as one journey rather than two separate holidays. The exact route depends on the season, border arrangements and how much time you have.
WESTERN KAZAKHSTAN
Mangystau. A different Kazakhstan altogether.
I hadn't heard of Mangystau until I saw photographs that made me want to go. Even then, I wasn't prepared for the scale of the place.
The landscape is enormous. White limestone cliffs rise out of the desert, strange rock formations appear on the horizon, and there are stretches where you barely see another vehicle.
I travelled through the region with a local driver and guide, staying out in the desert and exploring places that would have been difficult to find independently.
What stayed with me wasn't only the scenery. It was the long drives across seemingly empty country, the changing light on the rocks and the extraordinary sense of space.
This is very different from travelling around Almaty. You need to be comfortable with long days in a 4WD, rough tracks and basic accommodation or camping in remote locations.
For the right traveller, that's part of what makes Mangystau so memorable. But it's important to know what sort of journey you're choosing.
PLANNING A MANGYSTAU JOURNEY
A few things worth knowing before you go.
Allow at least three to four days.
That gives you a reasonable introduction to the landscape. With more time, you can travel further and spend longer in the places that interest you most.
Start and finish in Aktau.
Aktau has comfortable hotels and makes a practical base before and after your desert journey. Mangystau is in western Kazakhstan, a long way from Almaty, so I would normally plan to reach it by air.
Travel with a knowledgeable local driver and guide.
The distances are considerable, many roads are rough or unmarked, and a suitable 4WD is essential. I can help arrange the journey with a local operator and connect it with the rest of your travels.
Expect simpler accommodation.
Out in Mangystau, accommodation may mean camping or simple guesthouses, depending on the route. This isn't a journey I'd sell as luxury travel, but you can make sensible choices about comfort and how long to spend in remote conditions.
SPACE EXPLORATION
Baikonur. For the space enthusiasts.
If you grew up watching space launches or have an interest in the Soviet space programme, Baikonur is somewhere worth knowing about.
Sputnik was launched from here, and Yuri Gagarin began the first human journey into space from the Baikonur Cosmodrome.
It's still an operational space facility, not an ordinary visitor attraction. Access is controlled, visits must be arranged through authorised operators and programmes depend on what is permitted at the time.
I wouldn't automatically include Baikonur in a first journey through Kazakhstan. But if space exploration is a particular interest, it's worth investigating what might be possible.
ASTANA
Kazakhstan's modern capital.
Astana offers a striking contrast to Almaty.
Its monumental buildings, wide avenues and ambitious modern architecture tell a different story about Kazakhstan.
I wouldn't automatically add it to a first itinerary simply to include the capital. But if contemporary architecture, urban development or the country's recent history interests you, Astana can be a rewarding place to explore.
It deserves time of its own rather than being squeezed into a trip that is really about somewhere else.
HOW TO SEE KAZAKHSTAN
Choose the journey, not the checklist.
Almaty and the southeast
A good choice if you want interesting city life, excellent food, mountains, lakes and opportunities to walk.
Allow several days in Almaty and more if you want to explore Charyn, Kolsai and Kaindy properly. This part of Kazakhstan also combines naturally with eastern Kyrgyzstan.
Mangystau
For travellers drawn to remote landscapes, unusual geology and somewhere genuinely different.
Allow at least three to four days for a guided 4WD journey from Aktau. Expect long distances and some basic nights, but also extraordinary places that are difficult to appreciate from photographs alone.
Astana and Baikonur
These are more specialised additions.
Astana is worth considering for contemporary architecture and Kazakhstan's modern history. Baikonur is of particular interest to space enthusiasts, although access must be checked and arranged well in advance.
I'd include either because it genuinely interests you, not because it happens to be on the map.
READY TO EXPLORE?
Kazakhstan doesn’t need to be one big trip.
You might want a few days in Almaty before heading into Kyrgyzstan, a longer journey through the southeast or a 4WD adventure in Mangystau.
Tell me what appeals to you, how long you have and how you like to travel. I'll help work out a route that makes sense, along with where a good local guide or specialist operator can add something.
Kazakhstan doesn't have to be one enormous trip. It just needs to be the right one for you.